What it is
A French bistro steps from Worth Avenue that does steak frites, escargot, and duck confit the way they're supposed to be done — without irony, without fusion, without apology. The room is small enough to feel personal and polished enough to feel like an occasion.
What to order
- Steak frites — the litmus test for any French restaurant.
- Escargot if you're in the mood to feel like a person who eats escargot.
- Whatever the sommelier recommends by the glass.
Floyorker take
La Goulue is what happens when a French restaurant doesn't try to be a "concept." It just tries to be good. It succeeds.